The Air Jordan Legacy – Part 3 of 5

Like the 13, the Air Jordan XIV got a bit of a cool reception, however, in the end it got the last laugh. Dare you ask what Michael Jordan in his prime and the Ferrari 550 Maranello have in common? Well, they were both beautiful, sleek, ultra-fast, responsive, and high-performance machines. Described as “essentially flawless” by one online magazine, this was a player who truly had it all. Designed with minimal padding and a slimmer design intended for the AJXIV to be an extension of the foot, it contained a low-profile Zoom Air liner that provided a comfortable but not cushiony ride. Along the way, the XIVs kickstarted some trends, like metallic lace tips with jumpman etching and launching in a wide range of bold and experimental colorways, like ‘Oxidized Green’. Perhaps because people weren’t used to the new style and Michael had recently retired, the 14 didn’t sell well initially, however, as buyers adjusted sales and they increased. Today, the AJ XIVs, unlike the 13, are almost universally respected for both appearance and performance; the high prices of dead pairs on eBay serve as a reminder of the legacy of the 14.

Now if you think the 13 and 14 were controversial shoes, wait until you see the Air Jordan XV. Inspired by NASA’s revolutionary top-secret X-15 supersonic jet, this is truly one of the most controversial shoes in the Air Jordan collection to date. This shoe offers a minimal/sleek design that’s offset by an intrusive AJ signature tongue (inspired by the man himself lurking through the hoop) and flashes of color (although the XV returned to more traditional colourways). In addition to the protruding tongue and sonic jet styling, the XV’s other innovative feature is the supportive Pebax heel cup. This shoe broke new ground as the first to come in two different flavors; the usual lowtop and the ‘Moc’ version that consists of a ‘horn shoe’ tab and interwoven upper part.

The AJ15 is a good conversation starter and some of its design features should stand the test of time.

Seeking a new creative challenge after some experimental but controversial pitches, Tinker Hatfield stepped away from AJ design for a while. The most interesting new development on the AJXVI, aside from the gaiter feature that gave this shoe its distinctive character, was the development as it was designed by Wilson Smith rather than Tinker Hatfield; Smith had worked with Hatfield for many years before designing the 16 and, like Hatfield, he too began his career as an architect (he now designs ‘houses for the feet’, he says). The Wilson Smith influence on the shoe can be felt in the following ways: the removable gaiter with hook-and-loop and magnetic closures, a mix of quality materials in the upper including leather, mesh, suede and patent leather, molded air pockets blown through heel, a clear rubber outsole, and detailed Jordan/Jumpman branding throughout. What really stands out about this shoe is the patent leather and of course the AJ16 signature gaiter aka shroud; it meant MJ the businessman could seamlessly transition from taking care of business off the court to on it by shedding his leggings and exposing the mesh, laces and attitude of a true ballplayer. Another trademark of the 16th is the clear/digital patterned outsole design combined with the comfortable fit of the mid-top with attached gaiter (the 16 also came in a hem that had the option of raising the collar for a bit). more than arrogance).

While the 16 pioneered sneaker design/fashion thanks to the removable gaiter, the AJXVII also made its mark as the high price tag launched the AJ into the realm of luxury. The Air Jordan XVII is most memorable in connection with Michael’s eventual return with the Washington Wizards and the buzz he created throughout the NBA. It is remembered from a shoe standpoint as a streamlined, sophisticated sneaker with top-of-the-line technological feedback, not to mention the $200 price tag that moved footwear into a whole new fashion segment from shoe to luxury item. In the end, despite the media hype associated with what would be Michael’s final and short-lived return to the league and the high price tag placed on him at 18, this really was architecturally and artistically speaking, an impressive creation. The AJ XVII, while not designed after a fancy but high-performance car, is definitely a lean and mean machine whose look is simple and clean with all functional parts contributing to the overall effectiveness. The blow molded Air unit in the heel provides comfort and the rich leather upper offers class and like all impressive mechanical designs, touches like the lace toggles provide functionality as well as good looks. Testing the sole, you’ll find that the 17 offers great traction and just happens to be one of the best performing Jordans around. They don’t just look good, they’re also the real deal on the court. Work or play, these Js have game.